Posts Tagged ‘Ram’

How to add RAM to speed up your PC

November 1st, 2011

Adding more memory to your PC or laptop is one of the most cost-effective means of boosting its performance. PC Advisor looks at how to choose the right RAM and avoid installation issues.

How choose and install the right RAM

Now is a good time to upgrade your computer’s RAM. Most PCs are sold with 64bit operating systems. Software is more memory-intensive than ever, and 64bit programs and games are shipping. Memory prices have also dropped substantially.

Buying the right memory isn’t as easy as it used to be, however. Most current desktop PCs use DDR3 memory, but some older systems use DDR2. The situation is similar with laptops. Check your manufacturer’s manual to find out which type of memory you need.

You can also use Belarc Advisor – an online tool that takes an inventory of your setup and suggests suitable components for it. Kingston Technology and Crucial both offer RAM and SODIMM (laptop memory module) upgrade advice, based on the brand and model of your PC.

When upgrading desktop systems, memory speed and timing can be an issue. Many motherboards are unable to simultaneously run modules in each of their memory sockets at full-speed. One strategy is to buy modules a speed grade higher than the motherboard supports, then dial them down. We once ran an X58 motherboard with 12GB of DDR3 RAM; it had six 1,600MHz modules running at 1,333MHz.

Choosing laptop memory modules is a little easier, if you know the rated speed and capacity. Laptop motherboards generally support no more than two memory modules, although a few models have three sockets.

Whether it’s a laptop or a desktop PC, a general rule of thumb is to stick to the same capacity for each memory channel. For a dual-channel PC with four memory sockets, for example, it’s fine to have two 2GB modules and two 4GB modules. However, you must ensure that each pair of matching modules is installed in sockets for the same memory channel.

Upgrading desktop PC memory

Set the PC on an elevated platform, such as a table or workbench. It’s much easier to work inside the case if you have lots of elbow room. Clear all the wiring and clutter from around the DRAM sockets.

Confirm that you have the correct module types for your desktop PC. You don’t want to insert DDR3 modules into DDR2 sockets.

Most memory sockets have two locking tabs on either side that flip down to release memory modules for removal. Some motherboards may have a locking tab on only one side. If you’re replacing old modules with new memory, unlatch one or both tabs to release and lift out the old module.

Your graphics card or CPU cooling fan may crowd the memory socket to the point that you can’t remove or insert memory. In this case, you’ll need to carefully remove the offending items first.

Never handle DRAM modules by their gold-plated contacts. When inserting new modules, make sure the locking tab or tabs are completely open.

To ensure you’re inserting the new RAM modules the right way round, align the key notch with the corresponding ridge in the memory socket. Be very gentle when inserting new DIMMs. Push the new module straight down into the socket until the locking tabs latch the module into place. Double-check all the tabs are locked and the module is firmly in place.

Reattach any hardware or wired connections you had to remove prior to installing the memory modules.

Now try powering up the system. A succession of fast beeps indicates that one of the modules isn’t properly installed or may be defective. If you’re trying to fill all the memory sockets, remove the old modules and check whether the PC will boot up properly with only the new ones fitted.

Upgrading laptop memory

It’s usually a matter of simply undoing a few screws on the back of your laptop to remove the rear panel and access the RAM. Consult your manual for details of how to open the bay containing the memory sockets. If the manual doesn’t explain this, look for the information on the manufacturer’s website.

Laptop parts are delicate and very small. You may need to use a screwdriver with a special head to remove the screws from the memory compartment.

Confirm you have the correct module types for your PC (DDR2 or DDR3).

Laptops use SODIMMs, which are smaller than desktop memory modules. Their memory sockets have locking tabs; once unlatched, a spring will often push up the old modules for easy removal.

When inserting a new module, line up its notch with the matching ridge in the memory socket. Slide the module into the slot and press it into the laptop to latch it in place. Check to see whether the system boots up before replacing the compartment cover.

Learn more about your memory

Windows Seizer 1.05 is a useful piece of freeware that displays low-level information about all the windows open on your desktop.

This information includes the window caption, its memory usage, handle, class, parent, process ID and file name, plus the window’s size and position.

The initial table displays data on only the windows you can see. Select ‘Show Hidden’ and, after a sometimes lengthy delay, you’ll also see the many more hidden windows active on your system. This can be useful for developers, but it has more general applications for Windows users, too: if a hidden window keeps locking up or hogging all your RAM, you can spot it here.

As well as watching your system, Window Seizer can also manipulate windows in various ways. It lets you close, hide or reveal windows, terminate locked programs, move them top-left of the screen (this can be very handy if they’re currently not visible) and more.

There are a few problems with the program, however. Memory usage doesn’t always appear to be reported accurately, for instance. And occasional lengthy pauses sometimes leave you wondering if the program has locked up. Still, Windows Seizer has plenty of useful features and offers a handy way to monitor exactly what’s running on your desktop.

Source:http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/pc-upgrades/3314462/how-add-ram-speed-up-your-pc/

Should I Upgrade My RAM?

October 7th, 2011

If the money is right, you probably should. But you need to consider a few things before you pull out your credit card.

First, can your PC take that much RAM, and is the RAM that you can buy at that great price the right type for your PC? For the answer to both of those questions, try the Crucial System Scanner. This small, free program examines your hardware, then tells you–via a web page–how much RAM you have, how much you can have, and what kind you need.

Crucial, the Web site that hosts the scanner, is in the RAM retail business, so if you’re going to buy RAM, they’re hoping you buy it from them. But they also give you enough information to look for good prices elsewhere.

Second, more RAM may not make a huge difference. PC World Lab tests done earlier this year indicated that adding RAM adds little improvement. As Christopher Null explained in Hardware Speed Boosts for Your PC, “if your PC already has even a moderate amount of RAM, you likely won’t see much of a speed increase from adding more…[a test computer's] performance im­­proved by just 3 percent when we moved from 4GB of RAM to 8GB.”

Source:http://www.pcworld.com/article/240679/should_i_upgrade_my_ram.html

Corsair Announces Vengeance and Value Select 8GB DDR3 Modules

October 5th, 2011

Designed to take advantage of that 32GB of total system memory or to give a notebook serious performance boost, respectively, Corsair announced 8GB Vengeance and Value Select DDR3 memory kits.

The Vengeance kits run at 1600MHz (1.5V) with timings of 10-10-10-27, giving users the ability to pack in 32GB of RAM into four memory slots.

The 8GB modules in the Value Select line are aimed at mainstream desktop PCs and laptops. The latter often has but a pair of memory slots; with the new Value Select modules, users can bump up their notebook memory to 16GB. Value Select modules will be 1333MHz (1.5V) with 9-9-9-24 timings.

Source:http://hothardware.com/News/Corsair-Announces-Vengeance-and-Value-Select-8GB-DDR3-Modules/

Step by Step: Mac Pro Processor Upgrade

September 30th, 2011

My primary workstation is a 2009 8-core Mac Pro. When I purchased the machine about two and a half years ago, I knew I wanted eight cores but at the time I could only afford the 2.26GHz option and 6GB of RAM. As one of Apple’s few remaining “upgradeable” line of computers, I hoped to upgrade the processors and RAM in the future. Back in June, with the impending launch of Final Cut Pro X and the increasing number of other high-performance applications that seemed to be running slower and slower on my Mac Pro, I knew the time had come to perform the upgrade I had planned.

I’d like to take the time to mention here that everything discussed in this article, except for the RAM upgrade, most definitely voids your warranty. In my case, the warranty had expired so I had nothing to lose in that department. But if you choose to follow my lead and upgrade your own Mac Pro, please understand that you do so at your own risk.

Now, down to business. The upgrade would come in two phases: RAM and CPU. The RAM would be simple, but I knew the CPU upgrade would be a challenge and that there was a risk that I could irrevocably damage my Mac. Considering the options, I decided to accept the risk and move forward with the upgrade.

I started with the easy part, and ordered 24GB (6×4GB) of RAM from Other World Computing. The price at the time was $320. This was back in June. Prices have now dropped even further, and the same 6×4GB configuration of RAM now costs only $244 as of the date of this article. The Mac Pro RAM is surprisingly easy to upgrade, second in ease perhaps only to the Mac Mini. It is a completely tool-less process and requires only removing the side panel from the computer, and then removing the processor tray from the bottom. Apple Support Article HT4433 helped explain the process, but for those familiar with hardware upgrades it is a very straightforward procedure.

For the processors, I decided to go “all out” and get the highest performance processor I could find. That would be the Xeon W5590 at 3.33GHz. These processors still retail at a ridiculously high price, between $1500 and $1800 each, but there is thankfully a robust market of used processors on sites such as eBay. I admit that I was a bit hesitant to purchase used processors, but after some research I found a seller with excellent ratings and an equally excellent price: $1200 for the pair of processors. They may be used, but at 66% off the retail price, I couldn’t say no.

The first challenge I faced was improper tools. The Mac Pro’s CPU heatsinks are surprisingly held in place with common 3mm hex screws. The only problem is that the screws are recessed about three inches into the heatsink, and I had no hex wrench long enough to reach the screw. A late-night trip to the local hardware store solved the problem, and I recommend purchasing the longest hex wrench set you can find before beginning this process.

The screws themselves are spring-mounted, so simply loosen them slowly until you feel them pop up. Once all four screws are removed per heatsink, carefully lift the heatsink up, detaching it from the connector on the logic board that controls fan and thermal settings. Be careful to note that the processor will likely be stuck with thermal paste to the bottom of the heatsink and will lift off when you remove it. Quickly turn the heatsink upside down to prevent the processor from coming loose and falling (although in my case the thermal paste acted almost as glue and it took quite a bit of force to detach it). Repeat for the second heatsink. Be sure to make note of which heatsink goes to which socket, as they are not interchangeable.

With the heatsinks and processors removed, I set about cleaning off the old thermal paste from both parts. There are specialized cleaners for this task, but I’ve found that a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol do the job just fine. Just be careful not to overuse the rubbing alcohol and have some spill over onto other parts of the system.

With the parts cleaned, I opened the package containing the new processors and the first thing I took note of was the drastic difference in appearance between the chips. The stock chips used on the 8-core Mac Pro are lidless, meaning the metal cap used for protection that is recognizable on most chips is not present and the core of the chip is directly exposed. I feared this may cause two issues: first, because the chips I was installing were lidded, the extra height of the lid might not allow the heatsink and CPU to sit properly in the socket; second, the Mac Pro was thermally designed for lidless chips and the lidded chips might cause temperatures to rise too high. Both concerns proved to be immaterial in the end, although special consideration had to be paid to ensure that this was the case.

I started with “CPU A” and placed the processor into the socket. After applying new thermal paste (I used Arctic Cooling’s MX-2) to the CPU, I slowly lowered the heatsink into place, ensuring that the fan/thermal connector was lined up properly. I then began to slowly tighten the hex screws that hold the heatsink in place. Because the new CPU was slightly thicker than the old one due to its lid, I wanted to tighten the screws a little at a time until I was sure that the heatsink was tight and secure, but not so tight as to cause damage to the socket. This turned out to be about five turns of each screw, performed corner-to-corner to ensure that one side did not over-tighten and skew the chip’s orientation.

The 8-core Mac Pro can run with just a single processor installed, so I quickly put the computer back together to test my installation before attempting to replace the second CPU. To my relief, the system booted up just fine and System Profiler showed that a single 3.32GHz (not quite sure why the processor reports itself as 3.32 instead of 3.33GHz) processor was installed. Satisfied, I shut down and dismantled the computer again to install the second CPU, repeating the steps above.

With both CPUs installed, I booted the machine and again it booted fine, but I noticed a problem: the fan on the second CPU (identified in the system as “Booster B”) was running at full speed despite normal temps on the processor. I was quite concerned that I had damaged something and began fearing for the worst: a lifetime of listening to a jet engine under my desk (those with Mac Pros know just how loud our machines can get when the fans go full speed).

I shut down and disassembled the system again. I decided to try removing and reattaching the second heatsink in hopes that it would solve the issue. Sure enough, as I reattached the heatsink I noticed that the fan/thermal connector “clicked” into place a little better than it had before and when I rebooted the system, the problem was solved.

With both processors installed, I decided to do some stress testing to ensure that both the used processors were still fully operational and that I hadn’t messed up anything else during installation. There are many ways to stress test a Mac but my new favorite method is using Primate Labs’ cross-platform benchmark tool GeekBench. Starting with version 2.2.0, GeekBench includes a stress test option in the “Benchmarks” menu. I let that test run for several hours and thankfully received no errors. My other previously mentioned concern was operating temperatures and I was happy to see that my temperatures only rose about 3℃ over the operating temperatures of the stock processors, a noticeable but completely acceptable result.

Now confident that the hardware I installed was “good,” I set about to find out just how much performance I had gained for my money. Turning again to the aforementioned GeekBench, I ran the test three times and averaged my results. Before the upgrades, my GeekBench Score was a respectable 13958. After the upgrade, my score jumped to 20643, an approximately 48% increase in performance. By contrast, a top-of-the-line Mid 2010 12-core Mac Pro at 2.93GHz with 24GB of RAM scores 24730, but costs $7300.

In the end, I spent about $1500 and brought my Mac Pro back up to speed with the current generation. The performance increase has been noticeable in everything from day-to-day usage to Final Cut Pro X rendering. Considering the high cost of a 2010 Mac Pro (and whether we’ll even get a 2011 Mac Pro), I am quite happy with the end result. The only tools needed are a long 3mm hex wrench, some thermal paste, and time.

Source:http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/step_by_step_mac_pro_processor_upgrade/

Performing a RAM Memory check on your computer

September 23rd, 2011

RAM memory refers to your computer’s random access memory or its ability to store data. One thing everyone should know about their computers is how to perform a computer RAM memory check. Basically, you’re checking your computer’s RAM memory capacity to see if there are any problems. The worst thing that can happen as a result of weak RAM memory is that it can cause an assortment of different issues on your computer.

A few of the possible issues you may encounter. It is important to remember that the below issues can also be caused by more than just bad RAM memory:

1. Computer does not boot, instead you get a beep code.

2. Random computer crashes causing BSOD, General Protection Fault error messages, Illegal Operations, Fatal Exceptions, etc.

3. Computer random reboots.

4. Installing Windows or another program fails.

Here’s how to check your PC’s current RAM memory usage:

Right click on your toolbar at bottom of screen next to the start button > Task Manger > Performance tab. If ‘Physical Memory’ exceeds 80 percent and your PC seems sluggish, you need more RAM.

What you add will depend on the condition of your computer and how you use it. For word processing? Gaming? Business? Emailing and surfing the web? Listening to music? Working? For creating comics,art works or graphics? Do you make phone calls or Skype?

“Today’s operating systems and applications run faster with large amounts of random access memory, known as RAM. RAM memory is what a computer uses to process information. Boosting RAM memory, allows your computer will boot up faster and programs will open faster. A PC with more RAM memory is less likely to lock up or behave strangely.” (buy.blorge)

If you find after performing your computer RAM memory check that you need new or additional RAM memory, here are a few ideas to consider:

Swap or remove memory by accessing to other compatible computer’s memory, like an extra computer in your home or office, a friend’s or colleagues’s computer. You can swap that memory into your computer to see if it’s a memory issue. Checking memory in a good working computer is a good method of checking to see if the memory in your computer is bad or low.

If your memory works in the other computer without issues or other memory is experiencing the same problems as your memory, it’s most likely a motherboard, PSU, or other hardware issue and not a computer memory issue.

After performing the computer RAM memory check and you find that you need to need to replace your current memory with a new one. No need to worry as computer memory is one of the most commonly purchased and performed computer upgrades there is.

Source:http://thebqb.com/ram-memory-check-on-your-computer/2212684/

Adding RAM boosts speed at a low cost

September 21st, 2011

Fast-paced lifestyles and slow computers are a perfect recipe for frustration. This week continues our look at the root causes of sluggish computing and how to pick up the pace without spending a lot of cash.

Beyond buying a new PC or upgrading your existing machine’s motherboard and CPU, the biggest performance bang for your buck is to add more RAM to your computer. Computers are limited to how much RAM they can hold based on the motherboard design and the operating system. To find out how much physical memory your machine can accommodate, consult your hardware manual. To see how much RAM you now have, you’ll need to open up the case or use special diagnostic software. In either case, you might need to consult a tech.

Windows XP can only work with a maximum of 4 gigabytes of RAM. Adding more is simply wasting it because the operating system won’t see or use it. The 32-bit versions of Windows 7 continue the 4-gigabyte limit, but the 64-bit versions can work with significantly more. Windows 7 Ultimate, Enterprise and Professional 64-bit can utilize as much as 192 gigabytes of RAM, and the Home Premium 64-bit version can use a maximum of 16 gigabytes.

If you can add more RAM to your machine without exceeding either the motherboard or OS limitations, by all means do so. You’ll see immediate performance improvements. Today’s RAM is faster and less expensive than ever before. Not any RAM will do, however. Make sure you know the proper specs for your machine and consult a tech if in doubt.

If you can’t afford extra RAM, here are some tricks for getting the most out of what you’ve got:

PTurn off extraneous bells and whistles. Windows 7 is laden with graphic eye candy, designed to make your computing experience more robust and pleasurable.

Unfortunately, if your hardware is not up to snuff, it can have the opposite effect, causing Windows’ performance to be sluggish and frustrating.

To adjust Windows 7 for best performance, go to the Start menu and type “performance” — sans quotes — in the search field, and then wait for results to appear in a list above. One of the top items should be “Adjust the appearance and performance of Windows.” Click this to be taken to the Performance Options window. In the tab labeled Visual Effects, you’ll see a long list of display options you can turn on or off. You can manually select what to use, automatically adjust for appearance or performance, or let Windows choose based on your hardware specs.

PDump those desktop gadgets. Sure, desktop gadgets — introduced in Vista and refined in Windows 7 — can be useful and fun, but they tend to also be resource hogs that can bog down a less-than-optimal computer.

If you don’t want to dump them altogether, at least limit yourself to one or two of the most useful, preferably stand-alone gadgets that don’t access the Internet.

PRestart your machine regularly. Many people like to keep their computers running 24/7, which can drain system resources and result in “dirty memory,” a condition that leads to slow performance and random lockups. Not all programs use RAM wisely, giving back less than they take in and resulting in memory leaks. People who put their computer to sleep aren’t immune but only postpone eventual problems.

People who keep their computers on all day every day tend to complain about performance problems. These same people are amazed how quickly those problems disappear by simply restarting the machine at least once a week. The longer you keep your machine active, usually multitasking several large applications, the more often you should routinely restart your PC.

We’re not done with suggestions, but we’re out of space. Tune in next week for the conclusion of this series, with more tips on low- or no-cost ways to speed up your computer.

Source:http://www.columbiatribune.com/news/2011/sep/20/adding-ram-boosts-speed-at-a-low-cost/

AMD intros Radeon-branded RAM, gives gamers that coordinated component look

August 11th, 2011

Have an inexplicable lust for all things AMD? Better sit down for this one folks, as your favorite chip company is back, this time peddling Radeon-branded RAM in exchange for your hard earned dough.

Tested to the “highest industry” standards, the DDR3 modules will be available in three SKUs: the entry-level “Entertainment” sticks (clocked at 1333MHz), followed by speedier “Ultra Pro Gaming” (1600MHz) and an “Enterprise” RAM of an unknown speed.

Akiba PC Online! spotted 2GB modules of the lowest tier chilling in Japan for a cool ¥1570 (around $20 stateside), as-well as a US product page (which we’ve kindly linked below).

Small price to pay for memory to match your graphics card — brand loyalty’s a beautiful thing, right guys?

Source:http://www.engadget.com/2011/08/09/amd-intros-radeon-branded-ram-gives-gamers-that-coordinated-com/

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