Posts Tagged ‘Ram’

3 Reasons Why Windows 8 Boots Faster

December 14th, 2011

As you may have heard, booting in Windows 8 is a lot quicker compared with other existing version. Microsoft is going to revamp the whole cold start procedure and change some elements along the way, making the computer always store vital elements and reactivate them as and when you push that power ON button. It is said that the new OS will be able to boot in around ten seconds, clearly setting a new standard for competitors. Of course, there is one Google Chrome laptop that can fire up in 9 seconds but the OS is still an underdog at this point.

Today, we are going to show you three reasons why Windows 8 boots faster, explaining what Microsoft tweaked under the hood of this upcoming operating system.

Before I start, let me tell you a short story. I recently encountered a case where a guy experienced some heavy problems with his computer (it rebooted like crazy) and did not possess the money or the time to replace the hardware. And considering that his configuration was so low, he did not want just to fix it, he wanted to buy a full state of the art computer.

So, to save money and still use its PC until he has enough, he optimized the boot sequence to a great extent. To get an idea, his computer now uses Windows XP and boots in 13 seconds. On the other side, my slowpoke laptop, running on Win 7, takes exactly 1 minute from the push of the button to the point where the desktop appears.

1. Redesigning the “cold start”: The key reason why Windows 8 boots that fast is the fact that some vital processes are not turned off when the computer is going offline. You can see the power off process more like a hibernation mode, where the kernel files are the only one kept in stand-by. When the user wishes to fire up the machine, these files are already loaded and thus the whole process takes less time.

2. Remaking the starting sequence: As you can see from the image below, the system now checks for hibernating files right after the pre-boot sequence, instead of simply loading these files along the way as in the classic Win 7 mode.

3. Using the RAM to store hibernating files: All the kernel files saved through hibernation will be stored in the RAM section, allowing even faster read / write times than other locations. As developers say, the maximum percentage reserved for the sequence is 75%, but a normal user will only use 10-15% percent.

Source:http://www.itproportal.com/2011/12/13/3-reasons-why-windows-8-boots-faster/

Corsair Smokes World Record With Dominator GT CMGTX6 RAM

November 25th, 2011

Boasting, are we? Corsair has just announced that a new overclocking world record has been set. One that apparently shatters the previous memory frequency world record with a custom-built liquid nitrogen cooled system. The record? They hit a memory frequency of 1733.8MHz (DDR3-3467) using Corsair Dominator GT CMGTX6 extreme-performance DDR3 memory.

World champion overclocker and Corsair employee Jake “Planet” Crimmins set the new record at Corsair’s laboratory with a custom-designed, liquid nitrogen cooled PC based on an AMD FX-8150 processor and equipped with 1GB of Dominator GT extreme-performance DDR3 memory. The system was powered by a Corsair Professional Series Gold AX1200 fully modular power supply.

“Breaking overclocking world records requires skill, ingenuity, and the right equipment,” said Jake Crimmins. “I’ve broken several records using Dominator GT memory. It’s reliable, it has amazing headroom, and it’s never let me down.” So, anyone placing bets on how long the record stands?

Source:http://hothardware.com/News/Corsair-Smokes-World-Record-With-Dominator-GT-CMGTX6-RAM/

Facts And Myths About PC Performance

November 11th, 2011

Maximising PC performance has always been a prime concern of PC users with several DIYs and free advice available everywhere. That being said, this age old problem has been plagued with certain myths as well. While there are certain ways to really speed up the PC, a few others don’t have any effect whatsoever. We will try to put the matter to rest once and for all in this article, where we will list some of the biggest myths about making your PC faster, and then cap off with some of the tried and tested ways.

Let us start off with some of the myths about bettering your PC performance.

1) More RAM Means Faster Performance
While this used to be the case a few years ago during the age of Windows 95, 98, and XP, it is no longer relevant. PCs and laptops these days usually come with at least 2 GB of RAM and tests reveal that adding more does nothing to improve performance, unless you have a gaming PC with a 64-bit OS. More important than the amount of RAM is how it is distributed across memory channels. A dual channel or triple channel configuration with less RAM is always faster than a single channel configuration with a huge RAM module.

2) More Cores Means Faster Performance
Not necessarily. Two cores are more than sufficient for most computing tasks, and going for more is usually a waste of money, unless you use one of those few applications that are written to make use of more than two cores.

3) Disable Anti-virus And Anti-malware Applications
Once again, this was true a few years ago when processing power was expensive. However, with most computers and laptops coming with multi-core processors having commendable processing power, it is no longer necessary to disable anti-virus and anti-malware applications running in the background. The new processors are more adept at handling multiple tasks at the same time.

4) Use Registry Optimisation Programs
Registry optimisation programs do not improve performance in a measurable way, although they do help old computers get minor speed boost. That being said, these programs help you get rid of redundant application entries and cut down on the registry size, but performance boost is not one of those benefits.

5) Clear Browser History, Empty Cache To Gain Speed In Web Browsing
Clearing browser history removes only the records about your browsing, while clearing cookies does nothing to improve performance as these tiny cookies don’t sit in memory, but only inform the websites when you visit them again. Emptying cache on the other hand can actually slow down web browsing because the browser has to re-download everything, rather than just updating the changed content.

Here are some of the tried and tested ways in which your PC will surely get that much needed kick.

1) Run Chkdsk Disk Repairing Utility
Your operating system and data resides on your hard drive. Over a period of time and due to certain other factors such as an improper shutdown of the PC, the hard drive may develop defective areas from which it becomes difficult or impossible to read the data. If this data happens to be related to the operating system, then your PC might take a very long time to boot. Such problems can usually be fixed by running a disk checking tool.

Open Windows Explorer, right-click on the C drive, click on Tools tab, and click on “Check now” button to launch this utility. Make sure to check both the boxes in this window and click on Start. This process takes some time, depending on the size of your drive and the amount of data present on it. You are advised to not work on the PC while the scan is in progress. If the drive is locked, such as when it is the host drive, you will be informed that the disk will be scanned upon Windows restart. Confirm and restart your computer to start the process. Repeat for other drives as well.

For those of you who are geeky, there is a command line Chkdsk utility, which can simply be run from the Run dialogue box. Press WINDOW + R key combination and enter “Chkdsk C:” without the quotes and press ENTER to scan the C drive, which is usually the host drive. Repeat this for other drives.

While the above method is your best bet at fixing hard drive issues and it will even patch bad sectors so that data will no longer be written to them, you are advised to start looking for a new hard drive in case bad sector formation is determined as the cause of your woes.

2) Clean Up Unnecessary Data
It is a fact that the PC performance slows down as you keep on installing programs. The second step in PC performance optimisation is to remove all the unwanted programs, which you never really use. You can do this through the Control Panel, where you will find the Uninstall a program link under Programs.

Next, you must remove all the temporary files lying around the hard drive. While it is almost impossible to locate them manually, Windows provides a tool to take care of that known as Disk Cleanup. You can find this in the System Tools folder inside Accessories. Choose the drive to be cleaned up and press OK. This utility will scan the disk and prompt you to decide upon the files to be deleted; you can safely opt to delete all the files it comes up with.

3) Defragment Your Hard Drive
Once the disk has been checked for its data integrity in the previous step and all unwanted data is removed, you can run the Disk Defragmenter utility to gather scattered files on the hard drive and organise them in such a way that they can be accessed faster. Open Windows Explorer, right-click on the C drive, click on Tools tab, and click on “Defragment now” button to launch this utility. Make sure to check both the boxes in this window and click on Start. You can defragment all the drives, but it is more important to run the process on the C drive to gain a performance boost. Disk Defragmenter can also be scheduled to run at a designated time and day every week, so you should take advantage of it and schedule it at a time when you don’t work on the PC.

4) Install The Latest Drivers
Most hardware manufacturers keep updating the device drivers for their hardware to get rid of known issues. It is therefore always a good idea to periodically update and install the latest drivers for your PC hardware. Using Windows Update is likely to help you, but it is better to check out the manufacturer’s website to stay better informed.

5) Install An SSD
An SSD or Solid State Drive can do wonders to your PC performance. The advantage of an SSD is that the performance almost never degrades even after months or years of usage. The issue of data fragmentation also does not exist on SSDs. Of course, there are other advantages such as lower power consumption and better resistance to shock due to the absence of moving parts. A relatively higher price is the only factor working against SSDs at present. You can opt for a small 30 GB SSD as your boot drive to get the desired performance boost without spending too much.

So there you are; five tested facts and five debunked myths about PC performance. If you have anything more to add to the list, feel free to write in the comments section below.

Source:http://www.techtree.com/India/Features/Facts_And_Myths_About_PC_Performance/551-116108-899.html

How to add RAM to speed up your PC

November 1st, 2011

Adding more memory to your PC or laptop is one of the most cost-effective means of boosting its performance. PC Advisor looks at how to choose the right RAM and avoid installation issues.

How choose and install the right RAM

Now is a good time to upgrade your computer’s RAM. Most PCs are sold with 64bit operating systems. Software is more memory-intensive than ever, and 64bit programs and games are shipping. Memory prices have also dropped substantially.

Buying the right memory isn’t as easy as it used to be, however. Most current desktop PCs use DDR3 memory, but some older systems use DDR2. The situation is similar with laptops. Check your manufacturer’s manual to find out which type of memory you need.

You can also use Belarc Advisor – an online tool that takes an inventory of your setup and suggests suitable components for it. Kingston Technology and Crucial both offer RAM and SODIMM (laptop memory module) upgrade advice, based on the brand and model of your PC.

When upgrading desktop systems, memory speed and timing can be an issue. Many motherboards are unable to simultaneously run modules in each of their memory sockets at full-speed. One strategy is to buy modules a speed grade higher than the motherboard supports, then dial them down. We once ran an X58 motherboard with 12GB of DDR3 RAM; it had six 1,600MHz modules running at 1,333MHz.

Choosing laptop memory modules is a little easier, if you know the rated speed and capacity. Laptop motherboards generally support no more than two memory modules, although a few models have three sockets.

Whether it’s a laptop or a desktop PC, a general rule of thumb is to stick to the same capacity for each memory channel. For a dual-channel PC with four memory sockets, for example, it’s fine to have two 2GB modules and two 4GB modules. However, you must ensure that each pair of matching modules is installed in sockets for the same memory channel.

Upgrading desktop PC memory

Set the PC on an elevated platform, such as a table or workbench. It’s much easier to work inside the case if you have lots of elbow room. Clear all the wiring and clutter from around the DRAM sockets.

Confirm that you have the correct module types for your desktop PC. You don’t want to insert DDR3 modules into DDR2 sockets.

Most memory sockets have two locking tabs on either side that flip down to release memory modules for removal. Some motherboards may have a locking tab on only one side. If you’re replacing old modules with new memory, unlatch one or both tabs to release and lift out the old module.

Your graphics card or CPU cooling fan may crowd the memory socket to the point that you can’t remove or insert memory. In this case, you’ll need to carefully remove the offending items first.

Never handle DRAM modules by their gold-plated contacts. When inserting new modules, make sure the locking tab or tabs are completely open.

To ensure you’re inserting the new RAM modules the right way round, align the key notch with the corresponding ridge in the memory socket. Be very gentle when inserting new DIMMs. Push the new module straight down into the socket until the locking tabs latch the module into place. Double-check all the tabs are locked and the module is firmly in place.

Reattach any hardware or wired connections you had to remove prior to installing the memory modules.

Now try powering up the system. A succession of fast beeps indicates that one of the modules isn’t properly installed or may be defective. If you’re trying to fill all the memory sockets, remove the old modules and check whether the PC will boot up properly with only the new ones fitted.

Upgrading laptop memory

It’s usually a matter of simply undoing a few screws on the back of your laptop to remove the rear panel and access the RAM. Consult your manual for details of how to open the bay containing the memory sockets. If the manual doesn’t explain this, look for the information on the manufacturer’s website.

Laptop parts are delicate and very small. You may need to use a screwdriver with a special head to remove the screws from the memory compartment.

Confirm you have the correct module types for your PC (DDR2 or DDR3).

Laptops use SODIMMs, which are smaller than desktop memory modules. Their memory sockets have locking tabs; once unlatched, a spring will often push up the old modules for easy removal.

When inserting a new module, line up its notch with the matching ridge in the memory socket. Slide the module into the slot and press it into the laptop to latch it in place. Check to see whether the system boots up before replacing the compartment cover.

Learn more about your memory

Windows Seizer 1.05 is a useful piece of freeware that displays low-level information about all the windows open on your desktop.

This information includes the window caption, its memory usage, handle, class, parent, process ID and file name, plus the window’s size and position.

The initial table displays data on only the windows you can see. Select ‘Show Hidden’ and, after a sometimes lengthy delay, you’ll also see the many more hidden windows active on your system. This can be useful for developers, but it has more general applications for Windows users, too: if a hidden window keeps locking up or hogging all your RAM, you can spot it here.

As well as watching your system, Window Seizer can also manipulate windows in various ways. It lets you close, hide or reveal windows, terminate locked programs, move them top-left of the screen (this can be very handy if they’re currently not visible) and more.

There are a few problems with the program, however. Memory usage doesn’t always appear to be reported accurately, for instance. And occasional lengthy pauses sometimes leave you wondering if the program has locked up. Still, Windows Seizer has plenty of useful features and offers a handy way to monitor exactly what’s running on your desktop.

Source:http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/pc-upgrades/3314462/how-add-ram-speed-up-your-pc/

Should I Upgrade My RAM?

October 7th, 2011

If the money is right, you probably should. But you need to consider a few things before you pull out your credit card.

First, can your PC take that much RAM, and is the RAM that you can buy at that great price the right type for your PC? For the answer to both of those questions, try the Crucial System Scanner. This small, free program examines your hardware, then tells you–via a web page–how much RAM you have, how much you can have, and what kind you need.

Crucial, the Web site that hosts the scanner, is in the RAM retail business, so if you’re going to buy RAM, they’re hoping you buy it from them. But they also give you enough information to look for good prices elsewhere.

Second, more RAM may not make a huge difference. PC World Lab tests done earlier this year indicated that adding RAM adds little improvement. As Christopher Null explained in Hardware Speed Boosts for Your PC, “if your PC already has even a moderate amount of RAM, you likely won’t see much of a speed increase from adding more…[a test computer's] performance im­­proved by just 3 percent when we moved from 4GB of RAM to 8GB.”

Source:http://www.pcworld.com/article/240679/should_i_upgrade_my_ram.html

Corsair Announces Vengeance and Value Select 8GB DDR3 Modules

October 5th, 2011

Designed to take advantage of that 32GB of total system memory or to give a notebook serious performance boost, respectively, Corsair announced 8GB Vengeance and Value Select DDR3 memory kits.

The Vengeance kits run at 1600MHz (1.5V) with timings of 10-10-10-27, giving users the ability to pack in 32GB of RAM into four memory slots.

The 8GB modules in the Value Select line are aimed at mainstream desktop PCs and laptops. The latter often has but a pair of memory slots; with the new Value Select modules, users can bump up their notebook memory to 16GB. Value Select modules will be 1333MHz (1.5V) with 9-9-9-24 timings.

Source:http://hothardware.com/News/Corsair-Announces-Vengeance-and-Value-Select-8GB-DDR3-Modules/

Step by Step: Mac Pro Processor Upgrade

September 30th, 2011

My primary workstation is a 2009 8-core Mac Pro. When I purchased the machine about two and a half years ago, I knew I wanted eight cores but at the time I could only afford the 2.26GHz option and 6GB of RAM. As one of Apple’s few remaining “upgradeable” line of computers, I hoped to upgrade the processors and RAM in the future. Back in June, with the impending launch of Final Cut Pro X and the increasing number of other high-performance applications that seemed to be running slower and slower on my Mac Pro, I knew the time had come to perform the upgrade I had planned.

I’d like to take the time to mention here that everything discussed in this article, except for the RAM upgrade, most definitely voids your warranty. In my case, the warranty had expired so I had nothing to lose in that department. But if you choose to follow my lead and upgrade your own Mac Pro, please understand that you do so at your own risk.

Now, down to business. The upgrade would come in two phases: RAM and CPU. The RAM would be simple, but I knew the CPU upgrade would be a challenge and that there was a risk that I could irrevocably damage my Mac. Considering the options, I decided to accept the risk and move forward with the upgrade.

I started with the easy part, and ordered 24GB (6×4GB) of RAM from Other World Computing. The price at the time was $320. This was back in June. Prices have now dropped even further, and the same 6×4GB configuration of RAM now costs only $244 as of the date of this article. The Mac Pro RAM is surprisingly easy to upgrade, second in ease perhaps only to the Mac Mini. It is a completely tool-less process and requires only removing the side panel from the computer, and then removing the processor tray from the bottom. Apple Support Article HT4433 helped explain the process, but for those familiar with hardware upgrades it is a very straightforward procedure.

For the processors, I decided to go “all out” and get the highest performance processor I could find. That would be the Xeon W5590 at 3.33GHz. These processors still retail at a ridiculously high price, between $1500 and $1800 each, but there is thankfully a robust market of used processors on sites such as eBay. I admit that I was a bit hesitant to purchase used processors, but after some research I found a seller with excellent ratings and an equally excellent price: $1200 for the pair of processors. They may be used, but at 66% off the retail price, I couldn’t say no.

The first challenge I faced was improper tools. The Mac Pro’s CPU heatsinks are surprisingly held in place with common 3mm hex screws. The only problem is that the screws are recessed about three inches into the heatsink, and I had no hex wrench long enough to reach the screw. A late-night trip to the local hardware store solved the problem, and I recommend purchasing the longest hex wrench set you can find before beginning this process.

The screws themselves are spring-mounted, so simply loosen them slowly until you feel them pop up. Once all four screws are removed per heatsink, carefully lift the heatsink up, detaching it from the connector on the logic board that controls fan and thermal settings. Be careful to note that the processor will likely be stuck with thermal paste to the bottom of the heatsink and will lift off when you remove it. Quickly turn the heatsink upside down to prevent the processor from coming loose and falling (although in my case the thermal paste acted almost as glue and it took quite a bit of force to detach it). Repeat for the second heatsink. Be sure to make note of which heatsink goes to which socket, as they are not interchangeable.

With the heatsinks and processors removed, I set about cleaning off the old thermal paste from both parts. There are specialized cleaners for this task, but I’ve found that a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol do the job just fine. Just be careful not to overuse the rubbing alcohol and have some spill over onto other parts of the system.

With the parts cleaned, I opened the package containing the new processors and the first thing I took note of was the drastic difference in appearance between the chips. The stock chips used on the 8-core Mac Pro are lidless, meaning the metal cap used for protection that is recognizable on most chips is not present and the core of the chip is directly exposed. I feared this may cause two issues: first, because the chips I was installing were lidded, the extra height of the lid might not allow the heatsink and CPU to sit properly in the socket; second, the Mac Pro was thermally designed for lidless chips and the lidded chips might cause temperatures to rise too high. Both concerns proved to be immaterial in the end, although special consideration had to be paid to ensure that this was the case.

I started with “CPU A” and placed the processor into the socket. After applying new thermal paste (I used Arctic Cooling’s MX-2) to the CPU, I slowly lowered the heatsink into place, ensuring that the fan/thermal connector was lined up properly. I then began to slowly tighten the hex screws that hold the heatsink in place. Because the new CPU was slightly thicker than the old one due to its lid, I wanted to tighten the screws a little at a time until I was sure that the heatsink was tight and secure, but not so tight as to cause damage to the socket. This turned out to be about five turns of each screw, performed corner-to-corner to ensure that one side did not over-tighten and skew the chip’s orientation.

The 8-core Mac Pro can run with just a single processor installed, so I quickly put the computer back together to test my installation before attempting to replace the second CPU. To my relief, the system booted up just fine and System Profiler showed that a single 3.32GHz (not quite sure why the processor reports itself as 3.32 instead of 3.33GHz) processor was installed. Satisfied, I shut down and dismantled the computer again to install the second CPU, repeating the steps above.

With both CPUs installed, I booted the machine and again it booted fine, but I noticed a problem: the fan on the second CPU (identified in the system as “Booster B”) was running at full speed despite normal temps on the processor. I was quite concerned that I had damaged something and began fearing for the worst: a lifetime of listening to a jet engine under my desk (those with Mac Pros know just how loud our machines can get when the fans go full speed).

I shut down and disassembled the system again. I decided to try removing and reattaching the second heatsink in hopes that it would solve the issue. Sure enough, as I reattached the heatsink I noticed that the fan/thermal connector “clicked” into place a little better than it had before and when I rebooted the system, the problem was solved.

With both processors installed, I decided to do some stress testing to ensure that both the used processors were still fully operational and that I hadn’t messed up anything else during installation. There are many ways to stress test a Mac but my new favorite method is using Primate Labs’ cross-platform benchmark tool GeekBench. Starting with version 2.2.0, GeekBench includes a stress test option in the “Benchmarks” menu. I let that test run for several hours and thankfully received no errors. My other previously mentioned concern was operating temperatures and I was happy to see that my temperatures only rose about 3℃ over the operating temperatures of the stock processors, a noticeable but completely acceptable result.

Now confident that the hardware I installed was “good,” I set about to find out just how much performance I had gained for my money. Turning again to the aforementioned GeekBench, I ran the test three times and averaged my results. Before the upgrades, my GeekBench Score was a respectable 13958. After the upgrade, my score jumped to 20643, an approximately 48% increase in performance. By contrast, a top-of-the-line Mid 2010 12-core Mac Pro at 2.93GHz with 24GB of RAM scores 24730, but costs $7300.

In the end, I spent about $1500 and brought my Mac Pro back up to speed with the current generation. The performance increase has been noticeable in everything from day-to-day usage to Final Cut Pro X rendering. Considering the high cost of a 2010 Mac Pro (and whether we’ll even get a 2011 Mac Pro), I am quite happy with the end result. The only tools needed are a long 3mm hex wrench, some thermal paste, and time.

Source:http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/step_by_step_mac_pro_processor_upgrade/

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